![]() ![]() has another solution that looks pretty easy to achieve, by mixing acetone with glazing putty it can be airbrushed over the print surface in one go. Deeper printing layer lines or minor surface defects can be smoother over with a variety of materials, from putties to resins, but the deeper the defect, the thicker the filler and that takes it toll on the surface details – smoothing those out and making fine details less distinct. This product can be found online HERE or can be purchased at Auto Zone or most any auto parts store.Finishing off 3D prints is a labour-intensive process, and getting a good looking, smooth surface suitable for painting takes a lot of time and plenty of practice. That’s about the time I hopped on the forums and found a solution.īondo Automotive Glazing Putty. A week or two later when I decided to ogle my most recent build to my horror I discovered the putty had shrunk more. Finally, after who knows how many applications I had the model where I thought things were squared away. I spent a good 3 or 4 days with the song and dance of putty, sand, putty, sand and each time it would shrink. The very last instance I used Tamiya putty was on a B-17 trying to blend the borders of a clear piece into the surrounding area. You can get a seam or gap to where you think it’s knocked out and come back a day later and find the putty has shrunken even more into the surface flaw. Look for a blurb on a nice scribing tool very soon. Once it is thoroughly dry you can use a good sharp scribing tool to re-scribe. The putty that will set up inside the panel line seems to dry slower and if you run something through it before it’s fully hardened it will chip up. You can still sand down to level, but if you need to re-scribe a line going through it give it a good few hours to dry. First, allow the putty to dry a bit longer. Scribing: Scribing over and through this product is a bit easier than with other putties I’ve tried too though some care is needed. However, I’ve not once had to use a third application. It seems like sometimes when the putty has been sanded down there is a very faint trace of whatever was filled an impression. ![]() It seems that in about 50% of cases I need to add a second application. Don’t mistake the need for a second application as shrinkage. It isn’t pretty, but I assure you the transition from putty to plastic is baby butt smooth: ![]() If you start out with a medium grit abrasive and work your way down to a polishing stick you can get a glass smooth surface that will be ready for paint.įortunately for me, Eduard’s Bf 110 C has such a horrible engine nacelle fit that I was able to truly appreciate how nice this stuff works. I’ve had multiple occasions of Tamiya putty chipping away at the edges instead of feather into the surrounding plastic. Within 45 minutes I am sanding away.įeathering: Bondo’s feathering ability is what makes it so good at repairing automotive finishes as is it’s ability to be polished down to a near high shine. I then remove the tape and allow the putty to dry. My method of application is to tape off around what I intend to fill and use a finger cot to apply the putty into the spot leveling it out and pressing it in as much as possible. Having discussed thinning, I’ll now say that I really don’t see the need to thin it most of the time. Hardware store thinner is fine for thinning for application, but I’d worry about it hazing and damaging the bare plastic. I would, however, suggest you use a hobby specific thinner like Tamiya, or Gunze. If you are someone who likes to apply putty and then wipe away excess with a cleaning agent (acetone in Tamiya’s case) then you can use a lacquer thinner to do so here. ![]() Thinning: Bondo is lacquer based and as such can be cleaned and thinned with lacquer thinner. Thinning Bondo will actually help the drying time too. It’s been eons since I’ve actually pulled out the Tamiya putty, but I know for a fact that it can take as much as over night to dry. Other modeling specific putties are equally “expensive.” A tube like the one pictured should even last a vintage Revellogram builder a good long while.ĭrying Time: Bondo wins here easily in that it is dry enough to sand within an hour or less. tube of Bondo pictured above is around $6 in an online search. Price: The Tamiya putty seems to be hovering around $3.50 to $5 online for a 32 gram tube (that’s 1.13 ounces). I don’t suggest that this is the only product out there that works, but I think if you tried it you would find it to your liking. For the purposes of this mini-review the only comparisons I can make with this product are to that of Tamiya’s because those are the only two I’ve used in over a decade however, my intent here is not to go after Tamiya’s product, but just to outline the positive benefits of automotive glazing putty. ![]()
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